What do Climbing Grades Actually Mean?

September 5th, 2008

A rock climbing grade accurately describes the degree of difficulty and danger for each chosen route.

There are a number of factors that contribute to the difficulty of a climb including the technical difficulty of the moves, the strength and stamina required, the level of commitment, and the difficulty of protecting the climber.

Different aspects of climbing each have their own grading system, and, just to confuse the issue,  many different nationalities have developed their own distinctive grading system, for example in the United States, climbs are rated from 5.1 to 5.14d (and now 5.15a) with 5.1 being the easiest. In fact, 5.1 to 5.4 are all pretty simple generally meaning that you probably don't need a rope, whilst 5.5 to 5.9 is an intermediate level - you will definitely need a rope. It gets exponentially more difficult as you go up the ranking - 5.10 to 5.15a.

My thanks to Wikipedia for supplying this chart which gives a selection of grading systems from around the world.

Rock Climbing Rating Systems
YDS
(USA)
British
(UK)
Tech/Adj
French Vermin
(Bouldering)
UIAA
(Central
Europe)
Eastern Germany
(Central
Europe)
Ewbank (Australia, New Zealand & South Africa)
5.2 1 I I
5.3 2 II II 11
5.4 3 III III 12
5.5 4a VD 4 IV IV 12
5.6 S 5a V− V 13
5.7 4b HS 5b V VI 14
4c V+ 15
5.8 VS 5c VI− VIIa 16
5.9 5a HVS 6a VI VIIb 17
5.10a E1 6a+ V0 VI+ VIIc 18
5.10b 5b 19
5.10c E2 6b V1 VII− VIIIa 20
5.10d 5c 6b+ VII VIIIb 21
5.11a E3 6c V2 VII+ VIIIc 22
5.11b 6c+ 23
5.11c 6a E4 7a V3 VIII− IXa 24
5.11d 7a+ VIII IXb
5.12a E5 7b V4 VIII+ IXc 25
5.12b 6b 7b+ 26
5.12c E6 7c V5 IX− Xa 27
5.12d 6c 7c+ V6 IX Xb 28
5.13a E7 V7 IX+ Xc 29
5.13b 8a V8
5.13c 7a 8a+ V9 X− 30
5.13d E8 8b V10 X 31
5.14a 8b+ V11 X+ 32
5.14b 7b 8c V12 33
5.14c E9 8c+ V13 XI− 34
5.14d 7c 9a V14 XI 35
5.15a 9a+ V15

Please be aware that different grading systems consider these factors in different ways, so no two grading systems have an exact one-to-one correspondence.

Confusing? if you're a novice - you betcha. But if you're more experienced you will probably have already sorted out all these anomalies for yourself.

However, if you are still confused please go to www.wikipedia grade (climbing).com and you will be able to read more on this subject.

Usual International Week Stuff

September 5th, 2008

Occasionally your world gets turned upside down. Tomorrow might be one of those days if the Daily Mirror has got it right (yeah, I know, not a phrase you would use that often) and England field an Arsenal player in a competitive match for the first time since 1887.

If he does start, I hope he takes his chance. The opposition seems ripe for him to show his 'wares' and a couple of goals would do him the world of good at this level. It seems unlikely he would be in the starting XI in Croatia next week on the right of midfield with Capello more likely to go with a defensively-minded player there.

It will be interesting to see if when the ubiquitous stories about Arsenal sinking the national team by having too many foreigners start up, whether or not any scribe mentions the fact that Atletico Madrid fielded a team of non-Spaniards in their weekend drubbing of Malaga (there was a Spaniard on the bench I believe). You remember Spain, Champions of Europe. Undermines their arguments somewhat if the problem is happening elsewhere and a national team is not suffering as a result.

Surprisingly, no-one has yet used the linguistic barrier to beat the club over the head following Samir Nasri's 'stunning revelation' that Arsene speaks to the players in French, aside from in team meetings. Shock horror! Two French speaking people speaking French. Non! Nasri has settled far better than anyone probably expected. In scoring twice so early on, he is creating a weight of expectation which is fine so long as he can handle it. Based on the limited comments he has made so far, that seems an entirely plausible outcome.

Stephen Appiah is being linked with the club - by the player and his agent, adding a note of caution to the tale - but I am not sure about Appiah. He has some well-documented injury problems, apparently exacerbated by his former employers. Arsene though has taken the chance on Silvestre and Bischoff this summer and being injury-prone is seemingly one of the pre-requisites for being in the Arsenal midfield these days. However, it is somewhat hard to take this rumour seriously and seems more to do with an under-employed hack picking over the internet for rumours, possibly using it as a basis for a 'look at how strapped for cash Arsenal are' story.

Gorkan Inler deliberated for a week before rejecting Arsene's overtures. It could be entirely unrelated to the fact that he has been offered a new contract by Udinese but I am not holding my breath on that one. Meanwhile, Arsene has confirmed that a new CEO will be joining shortly. I will not be rushing to the bookies to put my money on David Dein for that one.

'til Tomorrow.

Betting Odds: Boxing for 09/05/08

September 5th, 2008

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Here are selected odds for bouts which take place later on Friday via Bodog

  • John Fewkes (-500) Vs. Martin Gethin (+300)
    9.5 Rounds: Over (-500) Vs. Under (+300)
  • Rendall Munroe (-2000) Vs. Arsen Martirosian (+1000)
    9.5 Rounds: Over (-165) Vs. Under (+125)
  • Kevin Johnson (-1100) Vs. Bruce Seldon (+600)
    7.5 rounds Over (-200) Vs. Under (+160)
  • Ray Sanchez (-285) Vs. Joaquin Zamora (+225)
    8.5 Rounds: Over (+120) Vs. Under (-160)
  • Demetrius Hopkins (-2000) Vs. Juaquin Gallardo (+1000)
    8.5 Rounds: Over (-325) Vs. Under +250)
  • Urbano Antillon (-1500) Vs. Daniel Atta (+750)
    8.5 Rounds Over (+170) Vs. Under (-210)
  • Melissa Hernandez (-400) Vs. Ela Nunez (+300)
    9.5 Rounds Over (-210) Vs. Under (+170)
  • Rolando Reyes (-1100) Vs. Ivan Valle (+600)
    9.5 Rounds: Over (+160) Vs. Under –200)
  • Yonnhy Perez (-190) Vs. Tomas Rojas (+150)
    9.5 Rounds Over (-140) Vs. Under (Even) [closed for betting]
  • James Kirkland (-1500) Vs. Ricardo Cortes (+700)
    5.5 Rounds: Over (+170) Vs. Under –210)
  • Antonio Demarco (-215) Vs. Jose Reyes (+175)
    9.5 Rounds Over (-265) Vs. Under (+205)

Get more Boxing content at Combat-hooligans.com

لوگوهای المپیک 2016

September 5th, 2008

در تورنمنت های بزرگ ورزشی مثل المپیک و در سطح تخصصی مثل جام جهانی فوتبال میبینیم که کشورهایی که تمایل به میزبانی مسابقات دارند از چندین سال قبل رزرو میکنند . Read the rest of this entry »

Mother Made Laraque’s Choice

September 5th, 2008

Georges Laraque - Haitian NHL Player

EDMONTON - Daryl Katz so wanted Georges Laraque here as the Edmonton Oilers' nightly beat cop, the new owner offered the big guy a four-year contract -- one more year than the Montreal Canadiens were pitching the right winger.

Laraque still took the Habs' $4.5-million offer -- mainly because his mother in Montreal wanted to see him play games in the flesh, not on TV.

Laraque parted ways with the Oilers in 2006, signing in Phoenix. He was dealt to Pittsburgh in 2007. In Laraque's latter days here, Oilers coach Craig MacTavish didn't feel he needed a slugger in his lineup every night. When he did suit up, Laraque's minutes dropped.
Read the rest of this entry »

LEANDER PAES AND CARA BLACK-STRANGE OCCULT SIGNIFICANCE

September 5th, 2008

Leander Paes was born on June 17,1973.Cara Black was born on February 17,1979.

Since their birth date is same,there is harmonious vibration between the two.

They have won US Open mixed doubles

The alphabets,L and C,have same occult value.Thus the mutual vibrations are more strengthened.As a team,they can work wonders

CTV and TSN Unveil Blockbuster NFL Schedule for 2008 (VIDEO !!!)

September 5th, 2008

Together, the two networks boast the biggest - and most prestigious - NFL schedule in Canada, with exclusive Canadian coverage of tonight's season opener, Sunday afternoon early games (1 pm ET), Sunday Night Football, Monday Night ...


nfl schedule

Does NBC Have A Thursday Night Football Theme Song? (VIDEO !!!)

September 5th, 2008

This only starts the football-a-palloza for me this week. You've got your season opener tonight for the NFL. You've got your High School football Friday night. You've got your College Football Saturday. You've got your NFL football ...


thursday night football

Sixteen, Love

September 5th, 2008

Just who is this woman that John McCain has chosen as the potential Vice President? She’s fucking petrifying! She talks like a normal person, but all I hear is ‘I’m going to eat your children!’.

 

What a terrifying woman, and what a terrifying country the United States is sometimes.

 

Anyway, how are you all? I’m feeling really energised today, probably because I’ve not really written this blog properly this week – sure, I wrote one quick thing on the train on Monday, another on Wednesday, but that’s been about it.

 

Before I get into some very good news, I’d like to begin with something a little bit more serious, if I may.

 

Those of you who know me will know that I am not the sort to hold back – and those of you who have become readers will be largely aware of this too. This blog was started with the explicit purpose of externalising what was going on in my mess of a head after the completion of my Hoffman Process. In the weeks and now months since then, it has turned into something slightly different, but the target audience has remained the same – me. Ultimately, I write this blog for me.

 

I am pleased that so many people read it – I’m comfortably averaging over 50 readers a day – and I thank each one of you for sharing in my though processes, whether you know me, found me by luck, or did a search for ‘Hoffman Process’, as so many people have done, and found me that way.

 

Unless I name you specifically, I would urge you not to be offended by what I write. You can, with pleasure, call me a shitty writer, call me a chauvinistic wanker, write to me and tell me my opinion that God is no more real than Santa Claus will wind me up in an eternal, waking hell; but, as happened yesterday, if you write to me having a go at me about something I have said, having taken it personally, I am really going to be inclined to not want to justify myself.

 

That said, for clarity; please let me make one thing clear: I do not think women are stupid, weak, idiotic, or anything like that. Yesterday, all I was trying to suggest – actually, not even that, it was a theory - was that sub-consciously, I had developed a certain line of thought processes because of events of my past – it is not a conscious thing, and, as I have learnt certainly not my fault, and certainly not something that makes me a bad person. I will not justify myself on here again. I have a feeling that part of this blogs appeal is its honesty, and I will not allow that to be compromised if I have to consistently justify or apologise for what I write.

 

Hope that makes things clear.

 

Right, now back to the good stuff.

 

You know what sucks these days? Movies. They’re fucking awful. Thank all that is holy, then, for DVD, and the collected work of John Hughes. In a world where sticking your dick in a pie is considered the pre-amble for an entire movement of ‘teen movies’, Hughes’ work harks back to a more innocent time, where penis jokes where met with disgust by Molly Ringwald and a ‘I don’t want to see it!’, or a Saturday detention with a school drop-out who actually turns up when asked.

 

Last night, I watched ‘Sixteen Candles’ again. Sigh. (Trailer here)

 

In a wonderfully posh move, I have decided to join a tennis club, dusting off the old racket and short-shorts in a further attempt to flex my newly-found social muscles. Expect pictures when it happens.

 

And now the REALLY good news – I’M A STUDENT! Hurrah! Though I have been refused entry for the first year of an undergraduate degree at Birkbeck, yesterday, after some verbal cajoling with the admissions people, I have been accepted onto two 22-week diploma courses which, if completed successfully, would ensure acceptance of entry onto next years courses.

 

I am so fucking over the moon – and not because I have just been accepted. In the past, a letter of rejection would have killed me inside. I would have packed the whole thing in, or just sat in some sort of mute resentment. But, I didn’t take it personally, saw the positives, and actually, it made me more determined than ever. And yesterday was my reward. So. Fucking. Happy. Right. Now.

 

Well, this being Friday, this is the last entry of the week. The England football team are playing, and, with any luck, they’ll finally disappear up their own arses as they’ve threatened to do for quite some time now, and we can be done with the whole thing. Unfortunately, they’re playing Andorra, or Luxembourg, or one of those sorts of countries, so they’ll probably scrape a win.

 

So, until Monday, I hope you all have a lovely weekend, filled with happiness and light and love.

 

Lots of love,

Closed Box

Olympics 2016 Logo’s

September 5th, 2008

The potential hosts have released logo's for the games post-London.  I might make a couple of predictions if I may... I hope Chicago doesn't get it mainly because the US had Atlanta 96', Rio may be a good option but how is there security?, Tokyo would be interesting but pollution and close geography to Beijing may let it down, Doha may have Middle East security issues, Prague (Praha) is land locked so how will they host the sailing, windsurfing and beach volleyball, Baku is in Azerbaijan - have you heard of that ... me neither.

I am backing Madrid.  It looks historical, cultural, a good climate but a slightly dodgy logo, but my money is on Madrid.

d.


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